Culture

  • Posted: May 21st, 2012 - 6:30am by Doug Powell

    Generalizations are generally risky.

    But too often, celebrity doctors focus too much on the hypothetical and not enough on the things that actually make people barf.

    Dr. Mehmet Oz, host of The Dr. Oz Show, and Dr. Mike Roizen, chief medical officer at the Cleveland Clinic Wellness Institute wrote in a recent column that food safety is a big concern for North Americans.

    OK.

    The good doctors' idea of food safety is to ban agricultural use of antibiotics and clean up other aspects of the “food-pollution” problem such as growth hormones, artificial dyes and pesticides.

    There are risks and benefits to any agricultural technology, meaning they require careful consideration and use.

    The antibiotic apocalypse has been just about to happen since the Swann report of 1969.

    The pesticide pestilence has been imminent since Silent Spring of 1962, renewed with Alar in 1989.

    Food coloring?

    Cry wolf.

    People pick their poisons. Sometimes those choices are informed by data, sometimes by preference and learned behavior.

    I have my own risk-benefit schizophrenia, as do most folks. So it’d be hypocritical to tell people what to choose or do. My job is to provide information in a compelling manner and adults can choose while protecting their kids.

    Sanctimonious doctors sidestepping data in pursuit of ratings doesn't help anyone.

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  • Posted: May 14th, 2012 - 2:41am by Doug Powell

    People want to know about their food. Where it was grown, how, what’s been added and if it’s safe.

    The N.Y. Times, as usual, gets that little bit right in a commentary yesterday, but wrongly thinks right-to-know is something new, that media amplification is something new because of shiny new toys, and offers no practical suggestions on what to do.

    The term pink slime was was coined in 2002 in an internal e-mail by a scientist at the Agriculture Department who felt it was not really ground beef. The term was first publicly reported in The Times in late 2009.

    In April 2011, celebtard chef Jamie Oliver helped create a more publicly available pink slime yuck factor and by the end of 2011, McDonald’s and others had stopped using pink slime.

    On March 7, 2012, ABC News recycled these bits, along with some interviews with two of the original USDA opponents of the process (primarily because it was a form of fraud, and not really just beef).

    Industry and others responded the next day, and although the story had been around for several years, the response drove the pink slime story to gather media momentum – a story with legs.

    BPI said pink slime was meat so consumers didn’t need to be informed, and everything was a gross misunderstanding. BPI blamed media and vowed to educate the public. Others said “it’s pink so it’s meat” and that the language of pink slime was derogatory and needed to be changed. USDA said it was safe for schools but quickly decided that schools would be able to choose whatever beef they wanted, pushing decision-making in the absence of data or labels to the local PTA. An on-line petition was launched.

    Sensing the media taint, additional retailers rushed to proclaim themselves free of the pink stuff.
    BPI took out a full-page ad in the Wall Street Journal, the favored reading choice for pink slime aficionados, and four mid-west governors banded together to repeat the same erroneous messages during a media-show-and-tell at a BPI plant. Because political endorsements rarely work, and the story had spread to the key demographic of burger eaters, others sensed opportunity in the trashing of BPI. Wendy’s, Whole Foods, Costco, A&P, Publix and others launched their own media campaigns proclaiming they’ve never used the stuff and never would.

    Guess they didn’t get their dude-it’s-beef T-shirts.

    These well-intentioned messages only made things worse for the beef producers and processors they were intended to protect.

    Here’s what can be learned for the next pink slime. And there will be lots more.
    Lessons of pink slime
    • don’t fudge facts (is it or is it not 100% beef?)
    • facts are never enough
    • changing the language is bad strategy (been tried with rBST, genetically engineered foods, doesn’t work)
    • telling people they need to be educated is arrogant, invalidates and trivializes people’s thoughts
    • don’t blame media for lousy communications
    • any farm, processor, retailer or restaurant can be held accountable for food production – and increasingly so with smartphones, facebook and new toys
    • real or just an accusation, consumers will rightly react based on the information available
    • amplification of messages through media is nothing new, especially if those messages support a pre-existing world-view
    • food is political but should be informed by data
    • data should be public
    • paucity of data about pink slime that is publicly available make statements like it’s safe, or it’s gross, difficult to quantify
    • relying on government validation builds suspicion rather than trust; if BPI has the safety data, make it public
    • what does right-to-know really mean? Do you want to say no?
    • if so, have public policy on how information is made public and why
    • choice is a fundamental value
    • what’s the best way to enable choice, for those who don’t want to eat pink slime or for those who care more about whether a food will make their kids barf?
    • proactive more than reactive; both are required, but any food provider should proudly proclaim – brag – about everything they do to enhance food safety.
    • perceived food safety is routinely marketed at retail; instead market real food safety so consumers actually have a choice and hold producers and processors – conventional, organic or otherwise – to a standard of honesty.
    • if restaurant inspection results can be displayed on a placard via a QR code read by smartphones when someone goes out for a meal, why not at the grocery store or school lunch?
    • link to web sites detailing how the food was produced, processed and safely handled, or whatever becomes the next theatrical production – or be held hostage

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  • Posted: April 22nd, 2012 - 2:00pm by Doug Powell

    They will stay for years, number up to 2500, possibly have their own aircraft and artillery, train with the Aboriginal-dominated Norforce unit and drop in to help in Asia-Pacific disaster zones alongside Australia's Diggers.

    But whatever you do, don't call the Marine Rotational Force in Darwin, Australia, part of a U.S. base.

    ''No, no again,'' said Lieutenant-Colonel AnDroy Senegar when pressed on how much his operation looked like the forerunner of an official base.

    ''We will build no infrastructure. We will subsist on Australian food. We will be part of the community. It will be a partnership. We will not be intrusive.''

    No worries, here’s our dinner from a couple of days ago: Moreton Bay sand crabs with stuffed shells. Whatever the Marines eat, there will be choices aplenty.

    When the Marines arrived in early April for the first of their six-month rotations, then federal Defence Minister, Stephen Smith, justified their presence by saying: ''The world is moving in our direction. It is moving to the Asia-Pacific.

    ''It is not just the rise of China, it is the rise of China, the rise of India, the rise of the ASEAN economies combined, the emergence of Indonesia, not just as a regional influence but as a global influence,'' he said at a welcoming ceremony in Darwin.

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  • Posted: April 21st, 2012 - 10:32am by Doug Powell

    Was the pink slime controversy really a “stunning display of social media power,” or just new-fangled risk amplification and a reflection of how bored many are?

    The Washington Post, a print media outlet, arrived at the pink slime party yesterday to rehash what’s long ago happened, recycling sound bites in a lousy attempt to offer insight into how public opinion is transformed into beliefs. Worse, the Post provides a compelling reason why newspapers are in decline: no new facts or analysis, nothing new that on-line diggers didn’t discover and display weeks ago.

    Social media changes the details, not the basics: one version of ‘ole timey social media was called a lynch mob.

    Cue the cute cats video: it will get a lot more hits than pink slime, and way more than sushi slime. But only one, sushi slime, or imported frozen raw Nakaochi Scrape tuna product from a single tuna processing facility in India, has now been linked to 160 confirmed cases of Salmonella Bareilly, up from 141.

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  • Posted: April 20th, 2012 - 12:36am by Doug Powell

    The New York Times reports that in the rear of the Great Wall supermarket in Falls Church, Virginia, customers linger over razor clams, frozen conch and baby smelt arrayed at the fish counter. Crabs clamber over the ice. Below, sea bass circle in glass tanks. A girl in a stroller, eye level with a school of tilapia, giggles in delight.

    But other tanks are empty. The bullfrogs, turtles and eels that Northern Virginia’s booming Asian population used to buy at the counter and take home to cook are nowhere to be found, seized last year by state agents who leveled criminal charges against two managers of the store accusing them of illegally selling wildlife.

    The case, which is scheduled to go to trial in June, has put culinary traditions of Asian immigrants into conflict with state laws, illustrating what some see as a cultural fault line in the changing population of Northern Virginia. Asians make up 13.6 percent of the population of four Northern Virginia counties.

    Lawyers for the store managers say that the law governing sales of live fish and other animals has not been updated to reflect advances in aquaculture, and that it is tilted against immigrants with unfamiliar cuisines and customs. In a court filing, they argue that the case “seems to be about the tyranny of the majority.”

    It is clear that Kai Wei Jin, one of the managers charged, is unhappy about being in the middle of a criminal case. Mr. Jin, 25, fiddled uncomfortably with his phone during an interview, saying he just wanted to satisfy his customers.

    “We’re not trying to break the law,” he said. “We just want to do business, and just support the culture.”

    Lee Walker, a spokesman for the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries, said that the laws were necessary to protect wildlife, and that charges were leveled only after a warning went unheeded.

    “We really try to educate folks about the regulations before we ever try to bring charges,” he said. “In this case, every attempt was made to educate about what’s legal. And, unfortunately, action was not taken.”

    The case arose early last year after what prosecutors called a “concerned citizen” made a report of illegal sales. Officials went to the store several times and bought red-eared slider turtles and largemouth bass, which they said was labeled “mainland rockfish.” They returned last April, seizing turtles, eels, bullfrogs and crayfish, and delivered a warning, prosecutors said.

    When officials returned and found largemouth bass still for sale, they said, they sought charges against the managers. Both were indicted on four felony counts, but the prosecutor later agreed to reduce the charges to misdemeanors, which carry potential penalties of jail time and fines of up to $2,500.

    Some of the species fall under a broad category of wildlife that cannot be bought or sold, while sales of largemouth bass are forbidden because it is a native game fish. Crayfish can be sold, but the store lacked permits, according to prosecutors’ court filings.

    Lawyers for the store managers say that categorizing the fish and other creatures as wildlife does not make sense, because they were farm-raised for eating.

    Receipts filed with court motions show, for example, that some of the turtles were raised in Oklahoma. The bullfrogs were shipped from the Dominican Republic. The bass and some eels came from a Pennsylvania fish farm.

    A Great Wall store in neighboring Maryland makes for a study in contrast. The fish counter there has many of the creatures that have vanished from the Virginia store. Turtles labeled “farm-raised” paddle in one tank, selling for $9.99 per pound. At the counter, mesh bags bulge with live bullfrogs for $5.99 a pound.

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  • Posted: April 9th, 2012 - 3:38pm by Doug Powell

    The most frequently asked question with public and scientific crowds at any food safety jamfest I’ve done over the past 20 years: Is food too clean?

    It comes from that adage, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.

    But what if it kills you? Or causes irreparable damage, like 8-year-old Brit, Elisabeth Willoughby, who contracted toxocariasis, probably from contact with dog doo while crawling in the park as an infant. Her right eye was permanently scarred by the roundworm parasite.

    Watching daughter Sorenne slowly recover from whatever made her stronger the other night via 14 vomits and five diarrheal episodes reinforced, to me, how little is known.

    The concept of exposing people to germs at an early age to build immunity is known as the hygiene hypothesis.

    I’m not an immunologist, but the idea makes biological sense; I do, however, get concerned with the details, and generalizations.

    Medical types have suggested that the hygiene hypothesis explains the global increase of allergic and autoimmune diseases in urban settings. It has also been suggested that the hypothesis explains the changes that have occurred in society and environmental exposures, such as giving antibiotics early in life.

    Researchers at Brigham and Women's Hospital (BWH) reported in Science last month that exposing germ-free mice to microbes during their first weeks of life, but not when exposed later in adult life, led to a normalized immune system and prevention of diseases.

    Moreover, the protection provided by early-life exposure to microbes was long-lasting, as predicted by the hygiene hypothesis.

    "These studies show the critical importance of proper immune conditioning by microbes during the earliest periods of life," said Richard Blumberg, MD, chief for the BWH Division of Gastroenterology, Hepatology and Endoscopy, and co-senior study author, in collaboration with Dennis Kasper, MD, director of BWH's Channing Laboratory and co-senior study author. "Also now knowing a potential mechanism will allow scientists to potentially identify the microbial factors important in determining protection from allergic and autoimmune diseases later in life."

    Does that mean if your kid gets an infectious disease later in life, parents are negligent for not exposing them to a little infectious disease earlier in life?

    It all sounds romantically agrarian – a little dirt is good for you – until specifics get in the way; specifics like, it’s your kid.

    My answer to questioning minds goes something like this:

    We know immune systems take several years to develop in young children, and things start to go downhill after 55. (Freedom 55?) A little dirt may be good for kids, but there will always be some who, through genetics, environment and other unknowns, will be more susceptible to disease than others. And we’re not smart enough to know who those individuals are. The good ole’ days usually included stories about a family that lost a kid. And it was probably some kind of infectious disease. Western societies have enough science and enough affluence to decide, one is too many.

    Then there’s the policy. I can’t image the agriculture minister or secretary announcing that investments in a lot of this food safety stuff would be better spent on other societal priorities. We’ve done a cost-benefit analysis and decided it’s better for everyone to get a little sick. We’re going to lose a few, and we don’t know who those few (or many) are, but it’s a cost-effective approach.

    T. Olszak, D. An, S. Zeissig, M. P. Vera, J. Richter, A. Franke, J. N. Glickman, R. Siebert, R. M. Baron, D. L. Kasper, R. S. Blumberg. Microbial exposure during early life has persistent effects on natural killer T cell function. Science, 2012; DOI: 10.1126/science.1219328

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  • Posted: March 29th, 2012 - 9:26am by Doug Powell

    Lawyers, prepare your briefs.

    And put on clean ones.

    The New York Post reports on Gotham’s burgeoning food porn trend to consume meat raw, and lining up for the privilege.

    Takashi is one of a small but growing number of restaurants around the city catering to those who are rah-rah about consuming their animal flesh raw-raw.

    The first dish to come out is the yooke, ground chuck prepared like a Japanese version of steak tartare. Topped with a raw quail egg, it’s adorned with Japanese seaweed and an enormous shiso leaf.

    It’s also by far the tamest uncooked dish at Takashi, which gets its meat from some of the better purveyors around, such as Dickson’s Farmstand and Pat LaFrieda.

    Maybe they have those CSI UV goggles that make dangerous bacteria visible. Otherwise, it’s hucksterism to charge a premium.

    “Raw meats or undercooked foods leave you at risk of infection [of parasites or a slew of other illnesses],” says Dr. Michael Mansour of the division of infectious diseases at Massachusetts General Hospital.

    According to NYC’s Department of Health, restaurants must notify diners when food isn’t cooked to required temperatures — either verbally or by printing this on the menu. A diner may also request such a dish. Basically, it’s buyer beware — though the DOH says it will investigate complaints of people getting sick from eating raw food. But with so many New Yorkers obsessed with high-quality ingredients, meat so fresh it can be served raw is seen as a benchmark — not a danger.

    Food porn trumps.

    At downtown’s Acme, you’ll find endive leaves stuffed with a mix of raw bison and sweet shrimp. At Manzo in Eataly, Piedmontese beef is hand-cut and ground to order. Hakata Tonton, just a couple of blocks from Takashi, offers veal liver sashimi on its menu, as does EN Japanese Brasserie on Hudson Street. Last fall, Hecho en Dumbo in the East Village offered venison tartare on the chef’s menu. (It plans to bring it back next fall, too.)

    And then there’s raw chicken, a dish not for the squeamish. “There are a lot of places in the city that serve raw chicken,” says Dave Pasternack, chef-owner of Esca in Hell’s Kitchen. But you might have to ask, with a nudge and a wink, to go off the menu.

    For some, raw meat is uncontroversial. “It’s my soul food,” says Takashi’s Inoue, who grew up in Osaka. “That’s how we eat in my home in Japan. The meat is very, very fresh.”

    Very fresh, except when it sickens and kills, like it did in Japan last year, leaving four dead and at least 70 sickened with E. coli O111 from raw beef.

    Pick your poison.

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  • Posted: March 28th, 2012 - 3:23pm by Doug Powell

    As the usual suspects weigh in with ol’ timey public relations strategies and superficial observations of social media in the , it’s good to poke fun at all things foodie. Satirical takedowns of the pretentious and pompous never go out of style, regardless of the medium.

    From Eater, a cautionary tale for this modern life: the below anthem from The Key of Awesome! warns against the perils of tweeting before eating. A send up of Pet Shop Boys songs, it features "culinary paparazzi," a lobster and a cupcake posing like super models, and an unhappy ending. For the next time you think, "it's unthinkable to dine out and not record it/Want the world to know I can afford it."
     

     

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  • Posted: March 27th, 2012 - 3:32am by Doug Powell

     Here’s an effective way to get at some of the 1%; bad food safety advice.

    The Wall Street Journal ran a recipe extolling the virtues of steak tartare – “itsy bitsy pieces of raw red meat cling together and make for bold, blissful eating” – and came in with this nosestrethcher:

    “It is critical to source your meat from a top-notch butcher. The chances of ingesting pathogens, such as E. coli, are higher than when eating cooked meat, so shop with care. Let your butcher know you’ll be eating the meat raw and make sure it is scent-free. Ask about who raised your meat—you want a purveyor known for extremely sanitary practices.”

    Or a butcher with those UV-goggles that make dangerous bacteria visible to mere mortals. That’s an investment I could get behind, if it worked.

    It doesn’t.

    The disclaimer at the bottom of the recipe is probably as effective as those on restaurant menu; or on investment agreements.

    “Note: The FDA recommends cooking beef to 145 degrees and avoiding food that contains raw eggs.”

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  • Posted: March 14th, 2012 - 6:39pm by Doug Powell

    Ottawa Public Health has now confirmed 20 cases of salmonella, including 16 children between 15 months and 14-years-old, and four adults which they believe might have originated from The Lunch Lady Group caterer.

    The owner of the Canadian company told CBC News Wednesday she is devastated by the news and called the outbreak a "mystery".

    "It's horribly painful because we love serving kids everyday," Ruthie Burd said over the phone from her home in Markham, Ont.

    "We do everything we can to provide a reliable, safe service for the kids we serve."

    "We have very strict guidelines for all sorts of things when it comes to food and kids," she said, "We empathize with parents in this whole situation. We really want to know what it is and what we can put in place to prevent anything."

    As a parent, that doesn’t tell me much about the food safety training, standards, buying practices, personal hygiene and overall food safety culture in those kitchens.

    The Lunch Lady has a blog but it hasn’t been updated since Aug., 2011. They have a statement about culture and sustainability but nothing about what is done so kids don’t barf from Lunch lady lunches. There is a statement about food safety, how it’s all government inspected and they pay attention to recall notices. Perhaps it would be more reassuring to parents if the strict food safety and quality control policies set out by The Lunch Lady Group head office were available for perusal.

    Public health said 11 officials have been reassigned to deal with the salmonella outbreak, which also hospitalized three people. All have since been released.

    They have their hands full, one doctor said, trying to contact families of children who may have consumed contaminated food.

    "We're talking not only to the families of ill children, but parents of well siblings or children that did not become ill," said Dr. Rosamund Lewis, who added 50 families are being interviewed regarding one daycare alone.

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