Be the bug: microbiologically safe food, no exceptions

Posted: November 17th, 2010 - 11:03am by Doug Powell

Braunwynn, the college freshman daughter, e-mailed last night (although in Canada she’s called a first-year university student).

"Watched this documentary, Food Inc., today. Seemed like one of those things you would get quoted on. Was a particularly emotional part about this mom whose 2-year-old son died from E. coli O157:H7 in a burger. Made me think of you."

I told Braunwynn that I knew the mom, and it was a tragic story. I also told her I wouldn't get quoted in the movie because while it was compelling entertainment, it was scientific bullshit (or cowshit). “Most documentaries like that are powerful stories, but they are controlled by demagogues -- and good demagogues never give up control of the microphone. Then things get messy or confusing, or at least not so simple. love dad”

Braunwynn’s timing was rather fortunate (that’s her on a food-safety mission in 2004 where we watched visitors to this Ontario cheese shop troddle out to the porta-potty with no handwashing facilities and stick their hands in cheese samplers). As the U.S. Senate votes on a food safety bill today – which will not reduce the number of people barfing every day from food -- two of the Food Inc. demagogues, Eric Schlosser & Michael Pollan issued a statement supporting the Tester amendment, which would exempt small farmers and producers from the proposed food safety legislation.

"S 510 is the most important food safety legislation in a generation. The Tester amendment will make it even more effective, strengthening food safety rules while protecting small farmers and producers. We both think this is the right thing to do."

The most important thing any proposed food safety bill can do is reduce levels of illness and death.

But local food types worry the legislation's safety requirements could force small farms out of business.

Some of the arguments can be found on grist.org and include:

“We are really talking about two parallel food production and distribution systems in this country. One is inherently dangerous due to its scale, methodology, and distribution model. The other depends on an intimate relationship between modest, local/regional owner-operators, who take pride in their work and direct connection with consumers. … I for one will gamble with my health, and the health of my family, by continuing to patronize local organic farmers. Weighing the risks, and the benefits of superior quality and nutrition, I think I am making a good investment.”

Mark Kastel, co-founder of The Cornucopia Institute and director its Organic Integrity Project

“Small, sustainable farmers spend their money and time on raising safe, quality food. We don't have the resources, nor the economies of scale, that the large companies have that enable them to absorb additional regulatory burdens. … I look my customers in the face every time we sell them food. I know their children, and I have watched them grow up on the food we raise. I've talked with people who are fighting cancer or diabetes, or whose children have asthma -- and for whom high quality food is a matter of survival. Several of the people who buy our food are among my closest friends.”

Judith McGeary, founder and executive director of the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance

I hear these assertions all the time, and wonder, why is there no mention of microbiology? Those dangerous bugs really don’t care about size or politics: local or global, conventional or organic, big or small, producers and others in the farm-to-fork food safety system either know about dangerous microorganisms and take steps to control them – or they don’t.

Braunwynn is a student at the University of Western Ontario in London (the Canadian one), the town that also hosts the annual Western Fair. I reminded her that in 1999, 159 people, primarily kids, got sick with E. coli O157:H7 from the sheep and goats at the petting zoo at the Western Fair. Those sheep and goats weren't part of big ag and weren’t factory farmed. They are ruminants, and like cattle and deer, about 10 per cent carry E. coli O157:H7 at any one time.

But that doesn’t get mentioned in Food, Inc. Or legislation. Or amendments.
 

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Tags: food safety, legislation, Petting Zoo, senate, Sick, tester

Comments

crs says:

You should post something on the grist.org website. I saw a number of comments (including a sensible one from a food science student), you need to be represented!

Posted on November 17th, 2010 - 1:38pm

Judith McGeary and Mark Kastel says:

The question that had been posed in that thread was one of ethics and priorities, and our quoted comments addressed that aspect. Our position that small-scale, sustainably produced food should not be subject to the same regulations as industrial-scale produced food is also supported by sound science and policy. The final arbiter in this debate is the American consumer. Local, organic food, purchased at farmers markets, CSAs, food cooperatives and mainstream grocery stores have experienced exponential growth. Consumers are voting with their pocketbooks for safer and nutritionally superior food (not to mention, as is the consensus with many of the country's leading chefs, superior flavor). They understand that hands-on, owner-managed, family-scale farms have an attention to detail and craftsmanship that is not possible by multinational agribusinesses, factory farms, operating in a highly concentrated manner and shipping food all over the country. And the consumers' choices are consistent with the science. Contrary to your claim that 10% of deer and cattle carry E. coli 0157:H67, the studies show that the rates of this dangerous bacteria in animals is related to how they are kept, with significant differences in rates between grain-fed cattle in feedlots, grass-fed cattle on pasture, and wildlife. "Dozens of published studies show that animal rations and animal husbandry play direct roles in triggering E. coli O157 colonization of the bovine digestive system." (Benbrook, C. 2006a. State of science review: Published research on the sources and spread of E. coli O157. Troy, Oregon: The Organic Center. http://www.organic-center.org/science.safety.php?action=view&report_id=61 ) (see also Diez-Gonzales F. et al. 1998. Grain feeding and the dissemination of acid-resistant Escherichia coli from cattle. Science 281: 1666–1668.) "When cows are fed high-energy, grain-based rations, the pH in their digestive systems changes to favor E. coli O157. Stress and illness can also increase the susceptibility of cattle to E. coli O157, as does holding cattle off feed (Duncan et al., 2000)." (Benbrook, C 2006a) The sheep and goats in the traveling petting zoo were almost certainly fed a grain-based ration (because they would not have access to reasonable pasture while traveling) and placed under significant stress. These conditions are comparable to those in the large feedlots, not those of a small, pasture-based farm. While E. coli O157 can be found in organic produce and in improperly composted manure, the relative risk is very different. (Benbrook, C. 2006b. Critical issue report: E. coli O157:H7 frequently asked questions. Troy, Oregon: The Organic Center. http://www.organic-center.org/reportfiles/e_coli_final.pdf) Life doesn’t come with 100% guarantees. In adopting laws and regulations, the issue is one of relative risk, and the science supports that small-scale, sustainable farmers produce both safer and healthier food.

Posted on November 17th, 2010 - 8:01pm

D. Powell says:

oh, selective referencing http://barfblog.foodsafety.ksu.edu/blog/140235/09/06/22/where-does-e-coli-o157h7-come-food-inc-and-cookie-dough-versions

Posted on November 17th, 2010 - 8:56pm

Anonymous says:

Gee Dr. Powell, didn't you read the wall of text as well as your own posting? Small food producers make safe food because they CARE MORE, and have to look you in the eye. None of that silly HACCP business or GFSI compliant food safety management systems needed when you care...

Posted on November 22nd, 2010 - 9:52am

molbio says:

They MIGHT care more, but they don't HAVE to. Especially not if they lack the cognizance of microbiologically-safe animal and carcass handling, or haven't been forced to. Here's the (il)logic: If they are already being "safe" (what does that mean anyway? without any sort of GSP or other regulatory framework to define it?), then they should already be following the GSPs specified for everyone else - the only requirement that would incur extra cost would be the reporting. You can have all the "intimate relationships" with your customers in the world; when one of them gets sick from eating your food, what happens then? Even if diet is correlated with reduced pathology, that doesn't mean you can throw all the safe practices out the window. Regulatory action is designed around defining engineering and reasonable expectations that prescribe the minimum work necessary to ensure that some (in this case: microbiological) metric (CFU etc.) can be achieved most of the time during normal business operations. Since we're talking about food safety, allowing mom-and-pop farms off the hook (pun unintentional), would be like allowing that neighborhood diner whose owner knows all his regulars by name to not require the same food safety certification that the megachain down the street does...

Posted on November 27th, 2010 - 7:13am

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