Top Chef

  • Posted: June 17th, 2010 - 2:21pm by Doug Powell

    Food porn was on the menu last night as the new season of Top Chef kicked off. That’s me watching for about 30 seconds (right, not exactly as shown).

    Earlier in the day I got a press release about the Grilled Australian Lamb Burger with Brie Cheese, Cranberry Compote and Roasted Jalapeno Aioli, “America’s new favorite upscale burger” created by Anthony Jacquet, executive chef of The Whisper Lounge in L.A. (left, exactly as shown).

    The burger won the “Make Australian Lamb America’s New Favorite Burger” contest, sponsored by Plate Magazine and Meat & Livestock Australia.

    The cooking constructions state:

    To prepare burgers, place patties on hot grill. Cook for 2 minutes and then turn a quarter turn and cook for another 2 minutes. Flip burger and cook another 2 minutes. Turn a quarter turn and cook another 2 minutes. Add brie cheese and cover with a stainless steel mixing bowl for another minute. Pull burgers off of grill and let rest. They should be medium rare.

    I don’t know what medium rare is. If Australia wants to increase consumption of lamb burgers, require clear cooking instructions, like using a tip-sensitive digital thermometer to ensure the burger reaches 160F so people won’t barf and consumption of lamb doesn’t plummet.

    Susan Burton of Slate Magazine required almost 2,000 words yesterday to say she likes meat – well-done – and that she hates the food thermometer.

    I honed in on the modern American history of doneness, in large part because it can be tracked precisely—thanks to the meat thermometer. This early-20th-century invention brought about a giant cultural shift: the reliance on a gadget—rather than instinct, or experience—to assess our meat. The thermometer was promoted to home cooks as a tool of scientific precision. It was also an instrument of relaxation, something that freed you from worrying about misjudging the meat: "A roast thermometer makes for carefree roasting," advised the 1959 edition of Fannie Farmer's famous tome. By midcentury, temperature measurements were a common feature of cookbooks.

    Our standards for doneness changed rapidly when, thanks to Claiborne, Julia Child, and others, we discovered, and began to venerate, cooking methods that originated abroad. Once American palates adjusted to the European style of underdone meat, guidelines fell even further. (Child's leg of lamb: rare at 140 in 1961; 125 in 1979.) Times writer Florence Fabricant took note of this development in a 1982 article called "A Trend Toward 'Less Well Done.' " Fabricant called overcooking "a tradition in this country" and attributed the change to the influence of "Oriental" and "French nouvelle" cuisines. She also connected the trend to the then-new vogues for crisp-tender vegetables and for raw foods, like sushi. But eating rare meat wasn't simply a matter of evolving taste. It was a means of signaling something about yourself, an ethos. When Fabricant's article was published, serving your guests rare meat showed you were sophisticated.

    These days, it shows you're cool. (Look no further than the title of Bourdain's forthcoming bad-ass memoir: Medium Raw: A Bloody Valentine to the World of Food and the People Who Cook.)

    Somehow, author Burton manages to simultaneously trash the precision of a meat thermometer and propagate food safety myths about so-called factory farming.

    She’s so cool, she likes food well-done and doesn’t need a thermometer.

    I’ll continue to stick it in.

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  • Posted: December 10th, 2009 - 2:26pm by Doug Powell

    I’ve been interviewed and quoted by Prevention magazine a few times about food safety stuff. They didn’t seem any worse or better than anyone else and I always took the time to explain things from my world of microbial food safety and what makes people barf.

    But their latest story, which did not include me or any other food safety expert I know, claims to present, The top 7 foods avoided by food safety experts.

    Greg Johnson, editor of the Kansas City-based The Packer went twitterlistic, writing that the "7 foods experts won't eat, from Prevention mag lists conventional apples and potatoes. Too bad "experts" are bunch of leftist hacks.”

    Not sure if it’s a left or right thing – the U.S. is big on moral dualism. Maybe it’s a dumb or smart thing.

    Liz Vaccariello, editor in chief of Prevention Magazine, recently interviewed several experts on food healthfulness and safety. She asked, “What foods do you avoid”, and was surprised by some of the answers.

    1. Canned Tomatoes, Canned Soup, Canned Green Beans

    Something to do with BPA. Risk is minimal. Canned tomatoes are a great source of antioxidants. Canned soup and green beans are great comfort food. Food safety is impeccable.

    2. Corn-Fed Beef

    Something to do with nutrient profiles and blowing Whole Foods. Corn-fed beef rocks.

     3. Microwave Popcorn???

    Something about the chemicals. Eat real food, not popcorn.


    4. Nonorganic Potatoes and Carrots???
    Something about root vegetables absorbing pesticides. I worry more about microorganisms, and eating enough fruits and vegetables.


    5. Farmed Salmon???
    Something about chemicals in farmed salmon, which are far below acceptable government limits. Farmed salmon preserves the environment.

    6. Milk Produced with Artificial Hormones???
    Something about rBST and this is the best someone at the Campaign for Safe Food at the Oregon Physicians for Social Responsibility can come up with, when 30 per cent of all people in all countries get sick from the food and water they consume each year, and none of it has anything to do with genetically engineered hormones.

    7. Nonorganic Apples and Pears???
    Something about pesticide accumulation. Total BS. Bring on the conventional apples and pears. My kid loves them.

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  • Posted: October 23rd, 2009 - 12:57pm by Doug Powell

    Jennifer and daughter Ingrid brought the lamb, I did the cooking, and Amy’s mom flew in from Vegas. Another Thursday night in Manhattan (Kansas).

    What better occasion to try out alleged perfect gravy that scientists with the U.K. Royal Society of Chemistry have determined contains drippings from a roast on a bed of halved onions, carrots and celery and the left-over water from boiled cabbage.

    Add salt, pepper and a sprinkling of flour to thicken and …  a touch of soy sauce.

    Dr John Emsley, a chemical scientist, says soy sauce should be used in place of traditional gravy browning because monosodium glutamate from the soy sauce brings out the meaty flavour.

    A spokesman for the society said:

    “Chemistry and cooking are basically the same thing. Both need to have the correct formula, equipment and procedures. Just think of Heston Blumenthal.”

    Eww. Blumenthal makes me think norovirus and barf.

    And I didn’t take pictures of Thursday’s dinner, but Top Chef on Wed. night also struggled with lamb, and none of the hot-shot chefs could agree on how to define medium-rare lamb.

    Chef Kevin (left):

    “We’re having temperature issues with the lamb. What I think of as medium-rare, is apparently what she thinks of as rare. I don’t know who’s right or wrong, I don’t know if there is anyone who is right or wrong.”

    The judges knew:

    “This was seared raw lamb that was horrible.”

    “Severely underdone.”

    “Center was like jello.”

    “A little too bloody.”

    The lamb shoulder roast we had last night was cooked to 140F. There’s even a chart on the Internet that says medium-rare lamb is 140F. I have no idea where the numbers on the chart came from, but it seems about right.

    Genius chefs and judges: use a tip-sensitive digital thermometer and stick it in.

    The gravy was delicious.

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  • Posted: July 19th, 2009 - 8:04am by Amy Hubbell

    I’ve been following the Tour de France since 2002 when I discovered my former classmate (and 4th grade crush) Levi Leipheimer was competing. Last year I boycotted the race when team Astana was not allowed in the Tour, but this year I kicked it into high gear and even started playing fantasy cycling. (Nerdy, I know.) Leipheimer broke his wrist on Thursday, and, unfortunately, had to leave the race. But his teammates race on, and racing requires amazing sustenance.

    According to the New York Times article, “Five-star tour cuisine for guys who eat and ride” the men on the tour require 5000 to 8000 calories a day.

    Eating that much demands enticement and Team Garmin-Slipstream (the team of my fantasy cyclists Farrar, Wiggins and Zabriskie) has its own chef, American Sean Fowler. Fowler works with the team’s physiologist to keep the guys feeling good and their bowels running smoothly. Juliet Macur writes:

    Every day at the Tour, Fowler cooks exclusively for Garmin’s nine riders, to the chagrin of team management. (…)

    On a typical morning, they will gather their cooking gear and take it to the motor home in which they follow the race. They make sure to arrive early at the team’s next hotel, to inspect the kitchen.

    If it is not up to Sean Fowler’s standards for cleanliness, which has happened a few times at this Tour, he will cook in the motor home. He takes precautions to keep the riders safe from food poisoning or other gastrointestinal problems, which could be devastating to their performance. In his motor home, he wields utensils and pots and pans like a careful samurai because the space is cramped.

    Although Leipheimer’s out, as of this morning my fantasy team still has four of the top ten riders. Let’s hope none of the others are injured or downed with foodborne illness.

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  • Posted: February 26th, 2009 - 2:10pm by Doug Powell

    There was no way Tom Colicchio was going to let the brash Stefan take home the Top Chef honors; he made that apparent with the verbal dressing down of the Finn a few weeks ago.

    Carla was all Carla and simply cooked herself out of any serious consideration.

    That left Hosea as the champ. Steady, boring, even the food safety issues were minimal.

    The most exciting part of the finale is that one of my favorite entertainment blogs, dlisted, picked up a picture I had created for a previous Carla post (below).

     

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  • Posted: January 29th, 2009 - 8:35am by Doug Powell

    The Super Bowl of football (at least in the U.S.) is Sunday so Top Chef on Wednesday decided to do a football-themed challenge that was probably taped 6 months ago.

    The football metaphors used in the show were as corny as the ones in a recent press release -- USDA gives food safety advice to kick off your Super Bowl party – but at least USDA provided accurate cooking advice:

    “Color is not a reliable indicator of safety -- internal temperature is. Use a food thermometer to be sure meat and poultry are safely cooked. Steaks should be cooked to 145 °F, ground beef should be cooked to 160 °F and all poultry should be cooked to 165 °F.”

    On Top Chef, Jeff and his excessively complex meals were sent packing, although the always entertaining Fabio should have lost for overcooking venison.

    Judge: The deer was already dead. You didn’t have to kill it again.
    Fabio: It was still bleeding when I sliced it; it was beautifully pink.
    Judge: That’s medium-rare?
    Fabio: Yes


    Use a thermometer, Fabio. It will make you a better cook.

    Oh, and Carla (below) won, and proclaimed, “Hands up, whoa. Touchdown Carla”


     

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  • Posted: January 8th, 2009 - 8:11am by Doug Powell

    Using a thermometer will make anyone a better cook – or even a better top chef. Thermometers remove the guesswork, and keep your family and friends safe.

    But rarely is a thermometer found in the top chef kitchens. Last night, someone’s lamb looked raw and someone’s scallops were swimming, but the judges said they were perfectly cooked. How would they know? Sure, it’s a lot more fun to guess – and the new judge uses more pop culture references than I do – but I’d rather stick it in. And the cross-contamination was rampant in the kitchens last night.

    Best line? When describing one of the chefs who always wants to prepare scallops, another said,

    “For christsakes, all she does is scallops. It’s Top Chef, not Top Scallops.”


     

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  • Posted: December 19th, 2008 - 5:18pm by Doug Powell

    The Maple Leaf makeover continued this week – a promotional video, settling all lawsuits for $27 million – yet some lingering questions remain. And neither Maple Leaf nor the Canadian Food Inspection Agency is rushing to answer the hard questions:

    • who knew what when;

    • why won’t Maple Leaf make their listeria test results public; and,??????

    • what is Maple Leaf Food's advice to those folks vulnerable to listeria.??????

    Rob Cribb of the Toronto Star reports today that thousands of pages of documents detailing the federal government's handling of this summer's listeria outbreak are being withheld.

    The Star and the CBC are seeking the records, which include emails sent between officials with the Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA), Maple Leaf Foods and the City of Toronto, through an access to information request.

    The CFIA has imposed extensions of a year or more on top of the normal 30-day deadline for responding to such requests.

    The joint investigation used the federal access to information law in the hope that a request would yield records showing what went wrong, when officials first knew of the outbreak's potential impact and how quickly the system kicked in to protect Canadians.

    None of the records first requested four months ago have been released.

    Repeated requests for an interview with Federal Agriculture Minister Gerry Ritz have been denied.

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  • Posted: December 17th, 2008 - 11:48pm by Doug Powell

    PhD student Ben is cursing me. I know he’s just finished watching Top Chef. So did I. So he had to endure smug stock-fixer Martha Stewart, who is constantly touching her hair when cooking. And the pretentiousness of food porn that is Top Chef.

    But give credit when deserved. Two weeks ago some of the chefs served lamb and used a food thermometer – they just didn’t say anything about proper temp or whether the thermometer helped decide whether the lamb was done.

    But this week, a refrigerator door was left open overnight and a bunch of pork and duck was sent to the trashbin after hours at room temp.

    Said one aspiring top cheffie:

    “I cannot serve meat that is not at a safe temperature. I could kill or make very sick everybody in the room.”

    Oh, and 15 years before Top Chef showed up, Toronto comedy fabs, Kids in the Hall, were skewering the fascination with all things food porn.
     

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  • Posted: November 26th, 2008 - 10:08pm by Doug Powell

    Team Sexy Pants edged out Team Cougar on Top Chef tonight as the wannabe celebs made a Thanksgiving meal for the Foo Fighters and their entourage of 60.

    Dave Grohl, right, said, “Did someone offend the smores guy cause I think he spit on mine.”

    And the smores guy got booted.

    Drummer Taylor said of one desert, “I don’t like pumpkin foam … No more barfaits.”

    Unfortunately, both teams cooked turkey in microwaves, and no one used a digital, tip sensitive thermometer, or any kind of thermometer.

    Keep it safe for Thanksgiving, and stick it in.

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